Santiago De Compostela

Santiago Cathedral towers above a huge square, an exuberant mass of golden stone, the climax to any journey to the city. It holds the shrine of St James, Spain's most important place of pilgrimage. For over 1,000 years millions of pilgrims have travelled to this site, and even today a real sense of celebration rings through the city's streets. Whether you are Christian or not, there is a palpable feeling that you have arrived somewhere very special.

Santiago de Compostela Hotels

Hesperia Peregrino Hotel - Avda. Rosalía de Castro s/n - Santiago De Compostela 15706 - Spain Phone: 981521850 Fax: 981521777
Los Abetos Hotel - Lg. San Lázaro, Ctra. Arines - Santiago De Compostela 15820 - Spain Phone: 981557026 Fax: 981586177
Gran Hotel Santiago - Mestre Mateo, s/n. - A Choupana - Santiago De Compostela 15706 - Spain Phone: 981534222 Fax: 981534223
Hesperia Compostela Hotel - Hórreo, 1 - Santiago De Compostela 15702 - Spain Phone: 981585700 Fax: 981585290
Tryp Santiago Hotel - Rua Do Restollal, 24 (El Pajonal) - Santiago De Compostela 15702 - Spain Phone: 981534949 Fax: 981524566
Puerta Del Camino Hotel - Miguel Ferro Caaveiro, s/n - Santiago De Compostela 15703 - Spain Phone: 981569400 Fax: 981572627
Parador Hostal Dos Reis Catolicos Hotel - Plaza del Obradoiro, 1 - Santiago De Compostela 15705 - Spain Phone: 981582200 Fax: 981563094
San Nicolas Hotel - Sar, 7 - Santiago De Compostela 15701 - Spain Phone: 696990136 Fax: 981561644
Castro Hotel - Formaris-La Sionlla - Santiago De Compostela 15850 - Spain Phone: 981888114 Fax: 981888063
Area Central Hotel - Edifico de Área Central - Rua Paris, 7ºC - Santiago De Compostela 15707 - Spain Phone: 981552220 Fax: 981552223

This sense of elation has always been here, for as well as being one of the greatest shrines Christian Europe has ever known, for centuries the location itself held a magical significance: the region was once known as Finis terrae, literally considered to be the very end of the known world. The story of the shrine of Saint James secured that magic and the legend is a crucial part of enjoying Santiago to the full. It makes a lot of sense to explore the cathedral through the eyes of the pilgrims, tracing their footsteps.

The cathedral and its story are reason enough to come here, but there is more. Santiago is one of the great tourist cities in Spain and stores a lavish history in its museums, monasteries, churches and university. While the story of the pilgrims is largely medieval, the character of Santiago is 18th century Baroque, one of the most perfectly preserved historic towns in the country. The walls and pavings of the narrow streets are all of hard, yellow granite and cut through the town like cold canyons; occasional tiny squares trap scorching sunlight. The whole city is remarkably evocative and merits lengthy exploration. As if all this were not enough, an abundance of Galician restaurants, hosts of cafe bars and a lively, albeit small, night scene all combine to make Santiago a difficult place to leave.

The story of the pilgrims of Santiago is one of the most astounding testimonies of the power of Christian faith in Europe. Its history reveals layer upon layer of stories: how the relics came to be here; the pilgrims and the commerce and customs they brought with them; the personal adventures they had along the way, and the part the church played in .encouraging" the legend at times of political weakness.

St James

The story goes that St James came to Spain to try and convert the peninsula to Christianity. He failed and returned in AD 44 to Palestine, where he was beheaded by Herod Agrippa. Various stories tell how his relics came to be in Galicia: one version claims they were brought here by two of his disciples; another that his remains were intitially buried in an Egyptian temple, and then brought here by Coptic monks on their way to Ireland. However they came to be here if you believe they are here at all they were discovered in 813 by a priest, and a shrine was soon established. The cult caught on and Santiago grew as a place of spiritual pilgrimage.

Christianity and Islam

During the 9th century Christianity in Spain was under threat from Islamic forces. The church adapted the cult of St James in the hope of strengthening people's fervour against the Moors, inventing a new role for the saint; he became Santiago Matamores St James the Moorslayer. The story this time was that in 844 he appeared at a battle against the Moors and led the Christians to victory. He can be seen in this form in carvings and paintings on many religious buildings in Spain: a bishop on horseback wielding a sword. As expected, the popularity of the cult grew.

At the end of the 10th century Islamic forces attacked and destroyed Santiago and its cathedral, though they left the shrine itself well alone, fearing its magic. Once peace was restored, pilgrims flocked back in even greater numbers; Santiago became a Christian rallying cry to combat the forces of Islam, and there was yet another surge in the number of pilgrims visiting the shrine after the defeat of the Moorish kingdom of Granada in 1492.

The Pilgrims

Most of the early pilgrims were from France and the route became known as the Camino Frances (French Way). It became an important commercial and social thoroughfare: pilgrims brought with them their customs and ideas. Architectural styles were also transported along these roads and can be seen at their most splendid in the cathedrals of Burgos and Leon. Pilgrims would carry scallop shells with them, the symbol of St James; in the Middle Ages artisans began to carve them from jet and these became popular charms. You can still buy them as souvenirs today. The scallop shell motif can also be seen in the decoration of buildings along "El Camino Santiago" all across northern Spain.

By the 18th century, the shrine was attracting pilgrims from as far away as Holland, Germany and even Scandinavia. The roads were difficult and dangerous and pilgrims travelled in groups of about 30 for safety against robbers and wild animals. Travelling on foot or on horseback, they would be away from home for at least four months, some would be away for years, and some would never return.

The pilgrims came in search of spiritual renewal: at Santiago they would be awarded a compostella, which was not just a certificate of their achievement, but also a plenary indulgence a kind of voucher that would lessen their time in purgatory after death. Approach the cathedral with all this in mind for a full idea of the drama of the pilgrims' experience and to read the carvings and ritual of the building.

Santiago Attractions

The Cathedral

The massive facade of Santiago Cathedral is a glorious sight an 18th century Baroque masterpiece of restrained, joyous grandeur. It is best seen on a warm evening when the last rays of sun light up the yellow stone of the west front till it burns gold. Seen in a downpour it is equally memorable: the stone becomes dark and blotchy, rain splutters from guttering and the whole edifice looks like a huge fountain a sight that has affectionately been called El orinal de Espana! Be prepared: it does rain a lot in Galicia.

The facade was built between 1738 and 1750 by Fernando Casas y Novaa, who managed to integrate the much older Romanesque towers of the cathedral into a superbly balanced overall design. A magnificent three tier staircase to the entrance adds to the sense of drama and majesty of the building.

Immediately inside is the original entrance, the Portico de la Gloria (1168), and the main body of the cathedral, built between 1075 and 1128. The portico is covered in some of the most exceptional Romanesque carving in Europe, the work of Master Mateo. The sculptures held a very clear message for the medieval pilgrims, showing heaven and hell in vivid detail. There can be no doubt about the horrible fate that awaits sinners: demons sink their teeth into some, while others are thrown into bubbling cauldrons. After their exhausting, dangerous journeys, it is not hard to imagine the pilgrims' heightened awareness of sin and mortality at seeing these images.

But for Christians there is a way out: Christ will redeem them. At the centre of the portal is a solid figure of Christ in his glory. By praying to the saints it is possible to gain spiritual purity and ultimately have a life with Christ, and of course St James himself can intercede on the pilgrims' behalf; not surprisingly he takes a central place in the design, on the column immediately below Christ. The faces of surrounding apostles and angels are animated, as if they are still having a chat, and originally would have been painted to look even more realistic. Notice, too, the carvings around the top of the arches showing the 24 Elders of the Apocalypse, all carrying wonderfully detailed medieval musical instruments.

At the Portico de la Gloria pilgrims would put their hands on the feet of the statue of St James in thanksgiving for their safe arrival: you can see that millions have done so by the worn marks of the stone. The figure at the foot of one of the columns looking towards the altar is that of Mateo himself, and there is yet another custom whereby people knock their heads against his in order to take on some of his talent. Pilgrims would then enter the cathedral.

An excessively flamboyant altarpiece fills the end of the solemn, lofty nave, more like an elaborate fairground ride than a holy shrine. Huge, swirling, candy twist columns decked with bulbous grapes and foliage are all carved from wood and painted in vigorous gold. In the centre is the shrine, beneath a canopy supported by colossal carved angels.

The pilgrims would walk towards it, round to the steps at the left hand side and down to a crypt under the altar. Here the relics of St James are kept in a silver coffer. Having knelt and prayed, they would climb the steps on the right hand side up into the very heart of the altar. It is an amazing experience: you find yourself actually inside the altar beneath a gold fluted dome right behind a statue of St James. Here pilgrims would kiss his richly embellished, gem studded robe. From up here you also get a saint's eye view of the congregation. Having completed this ritual, the pilgrims would have been presented with their compostellana. This is a routine no visitor to Santiago should miss.

Tesoro y Museos treasury, cloister, archaeological museum and crypt 200 pesetas.

The cathedral museum includes cabinets of elaborate church silverware, crucifixes, reliquaries, archbishop's capes of embroidered gold brocade, statuary and wood carving. The library has a wealth of ancient manuscripts depicting St James on horseback and here you can also see the "Botumfumera" a massive incense holder that is swung by the cranelike contraption in front of the high altar. To see it in action you need to be here on feast days. Reckless though it looks, you can comfort yourself with the knowledge that it has only ever swung off its chain twice, and no one was hurt. There is a large collection of 18th century tapestries here showing rural Spanish life in scenes of bullfighting, picnics and the paseo, and beyond the rooms where they hang you can gain access to balconies overlooking the vast Plaza del Obradoiro.

Around the Cathedral

The cathedral's many facades are all worth exploring. Stand in the Plaza del Obradoiro with your back to the cathedral: to your left is the College of San Jeronimo, a solid 16th century building with a 15th century portal which was brought here from a pilgrims' hospital. Directly opposite the cathedral is the Neo Classical facade of the Rajoy Palace, built in the 18th century as a confessor's seminary; notice the carved figure of St James the Moorslayer. The Hospital of the Catholic Monarchs completes the fourth side of the square, a splendid building founded by Ferdinand and Isabella in 1492 to provide accommodation for invalids and pilgrims. Decorated with royal coats of arms, the plateresque doorway is typical of the period; balconies and windows show subsequent Renaissance and Baroque additions. The hospital is now a national parador hotel.

Artisans would sell carved charms in the Plaza de la Azabacheria (also known as Plaza Immaculada) in front of the doors of the cathedral; azabacberos means "jet craftsmen". This was once a main entrance and pilgrims would cleanse themselves in a fountain here before going into the cathedral. The facade that stands today was completed in 1738 by Casas y Novaa and is wholly in keeping with the Obradoiro, facade Directly opposite is the monastery of San Martin Pinario.

Wander round the back of the cathedral and head back down into Plaza de la Quintana. This broad square, divided by a flight of steps, offers yet more excellent views of the cathedral towers.

In Plaza de Platerias you can admire the very oldest entrance to the cathedral, fabulously decorated with Romanesque carvings.

Monastery of San Martin Pinario

The severe 18th century facade that looks out over the Plaza de la Azabacheria conceals a huge, older monastic complex. Inside the church here is an outrageously ornate high altar by Casas y Novaa incorporating the equestrian figures of St Millan and St James crushing the Moors. Take a too at the 17th and 18th century cloisters and the curious old phar macy.