Oviedo

Oviedo takes a unique place in Spanish history as capital of the ancient, tiny kingdom of Asturias, the only area in the whole country to remain Christian during the Moorish conquest. The Moorish campaigns from north Africa began around 711 and their progress was swift, but in 718 the Visigoth king Pelayo defeated a Muslim army at the battle of Covadonga, around 80 km from Oviedo in the mountains of Asturias. Pivotal in Spanish history, this small victory signalled the beginning of the Reconquest. Pelayo was succeeded by Alfonso 11, who transferred the Asturian capital to Oviedo. Three architectural monuments remain from this period in Oviedo, remarkable in their distinct pre Romanesque style.

Oviedo Hotels

La Gruta Hotel - Alto de Buenavista, s/n - Oviedo 33006 - Spain Phone: 985232450 Fax: 985253141

Campus Hotel - Fernando Velaa, 13 - Oviedo 33011 - Spain Phone: 985111619
Libretto Hotel - Marqués de Santa Cruz, 12 - Oviedo 33007 - Spain Phone: 985202004 Fax: 985221554
El Magistral Hotel - Jovellanos, 3 - Oviedo 33003 - Spain Phone: 985215116 Fax: 985210679
Campoamor Hotel - Argüelles, 23 - Oviedo 33003 - Spain Phone: 985210720 Fax: 985211892
< b>Fruela Hotel - Fruela, 3 - Oviedo 33007 - Spain Phone: 985208120 Fax: 985207440
Ac Forum Oviedo Hotel - Pza. de los Ferroviarios, 1 - Oviedo 33001 - Spain Phone: 985965488 Fax: 985965487
Casa Angel Hotel - La Corredoria, 70 - Oviedo 33011 - Spain Phone: 985110411 Fax: 985119231
La Jirafa Hotel - Pelayo, 6 - Oviedo 33002 - Spain Phone: 985222244 Fax: 985225048
De La Reconquista Hotel - Gil de Jaz, 16 - Oviedo 33004 - Spain Phone: 985241100 Fax: 985241166
Astures Hotel - Pl. Campo de los Patos, 7 - Oviedo 33010 - Spain Phone: 985200908 Fax: 985226746
Las Lomas Hotel - C/ Cerdeño- nº 41 - Oviedo 33010 - Spain Phone: 985282261 Fax: 985299695
Nh Principado Hotel - San Francisco, 6 - Oviedo 33003 - Spain Phone: 985217792 Fax: 985213946

GETTING YOUR, BEARINGS

Oviedo is a congested, industrial city, but it does hold surprises beyond its three famous churches. At the centre of town is the Parque de San Francisco, a big, green, open space alongside the remnants of the old city. The best place to get your bearings is at Plaza Alfonso II, where you will find the cathedral and the tourist office. Calle Santa Ana and La Rua Cimadevilla, which run away from here, head into Oviedo's charming old quarter. Wander through to the tangled skein of streets that fall behind the cathedral. The area is best experienced on Saturday morning when it comes to life with a series of highly entertaining markets.

Plaza Daoiz y Velarde and Arco de los Zapatos form the centre of activity. Stalls emerge from beneath rough hewn porticoes as if they have done so for hundreds of years: knife grinders, light metal workers and zapateros the shoe repairers all still do business. The dusty old square becomes a riot of colour as great tubs of flowers are dragged across the flags, sacks of beans are weighed in ancient scales and everywhere are mounds of the lushest vegetables you will see anywhere in Spain, the product of Asturias's high rainfall and a reminder of why food in the simplest of restaurants here is so good. Follow the lanes between overhanging, clinker built houses and precarious tall, glass balconied windows through to the covered cast iron meat market. Tucked behind the heavily ornamented ayuntamiento nearby is the little square of Tras Corrales, yet more charming houses and at its centre the old stone fish market.

Oviedo Attractions

Santa Cimara

(Accessible via the Gothic cathedral. Open Monday Saturday 10.00 13.00 and 16.00 18.00). Severely damaged during the Civil War, the Santa Cimara. has been greatly restored. The 8th century inner chapel was built by Alfonso II the rest of the structure is Romanesque, including some exceptionally expressive 12th century carved figures.

The cathedral itself is a small and fairly unremarkable Gothic structure, built between the 14th and the 16th century, but its treasures includes the cross which Pelayo carried into battle at Covadonga, covered in gems and precious metals which were added later in commemoration of the Christian victory.

Santa Maria del Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo

(3 km northwest of town off Avenida de los Monumentos, behind the train station. Open May mid October 10.0013.00 and 1S.00 19.00; till 17.00 in winter.) Santa Maria del Naranco originally formed part of the palace of Ramiro I, successor to Alfonso 11. It is a building of refined elegance with balconies along the upper storey looking out over fine views of Oviedo, suggesting far more leisurely pursuits than prayer. Nearby, the church of San Lillo was Ramiro I's chapel. It is a small but monumental building, exquisitely carved inside. Both date from the mid 9th century.

Museo Bellas Artes

(Calle Santa Ana, 1. Tel. 21 30 61. Entrance free. Open Tuesday Saturday 11.00 13.30 and 16.00 19.00, Sunday 12.00 14.00.) Small, interesting collection of 19th and 20th century paintings, largely scenes of rural life and sentimental portraits. Even if you are not thrilled with the genres, the gallery itself is worthy of interest a tastefully restored Renaissance mansion with a central atrium overlooked by balconies at all levels and massive oak beamed ceilings.

Archaeological Museum

(Housed in the former monastery of San Vicente, behind the cathedral. Open Monday Saturday 10.00 13.30 and 16.30 18.30, Sunday 11.00 13.00.) This museum displays reproductions of the Asturian Visigoth architectural decoration unique to the area, including altars, reliefs and columns similar to those at Santa Maria del Naranco and San Lillo, along with smaller original finds.