Merida

Ancient Roman ruins rise from this quiet town and imbue it with grandeur. During the time of the emperor Augustus, Merida was one of the most important towns of the Roman Empire and the sites that remain are among the very finest in Spain. It is a small place, everything is on a personal scale and the sense of history is extremely accessible.

Situated beside the broad, languorous river Guadiana, Merida's low rise buildings afford little shelter from the excessive heat of the Estremaduran plains: from early summer it is very hot. The chaotic Plaza Mayor is an unsettled mixture of styles and the life of the town revolves slowly around it. Surrounding streets follow the small grid pattern of Roman times, and dotted throughout its modern centre are occasional reminders of Merida's Roman past. At a pinch the highlights can be seen in a day; classicists and archaeologists will want to spend longer.

GETTING YOUR BEARINGS

Finding your way around this small town is quite straightforward. Modem development is to the south of the river, as is the main bus station; all the interesting sites are found in the older part of town to the north. They are largely grouped together and walking is the best way to explore the town's treasures. The Puente Romano crosses the Guadiana and leads straight up, past the Alcazaba fortress, to the Plaza Espana (also known as the Plaza Mayor) and on into Calle Santa Eulalia.

The plaza is, as ever, the very heart of things, while Calle Santa Eulalia is a busy pedestrianized street running through the centre of town. Roughly parallel to it is Calle Sagasta, a minor lane where you can stumble across the 1stcentury Bc Temple of Diana. Both streets lead up to Calle Jose Ramon Merida, which climbs to the tourist office and Merida's finest Roman sites: the National Museum of Roman Art, the Roman theatre, the amphitheatre and the less significant Casa Amfitheatre. Merida's other Roman house, the Casa Mithraeurn, is near the bullring; to find it, follow Calle Graciano past the Alcazaba.

Roman Theatre

The Roman theatre is not only impressive, it is also still very beautiful: two tiers of pale grey marble columns topped by Corinthian capitals rise from the stage, Roman statues are ranged below them, and a semicircular seating arrangement capable of holding 6,000 completes the scene, just as it did when it was given to the citizens of Merida by Agrippa in 15 BC.

Roman Amphitheatre

This was built around 8 Bc, and here up to 14,000 citizens gathered to watch gladiators fight or to see spectacular mock sea battles, for which the arena was flooded. You can climb on to the terraces for a citizen's view of the proceedings, or crawl into low, dungeon like chambers and see where gladiators were kept before their fight to the death, close enough to smell the blood and hear the screams of men savaged in the ring before them.

Museo Nacional de Arte Romano (National Museum of Roman Art)

This is one of Spain's great museums; even the building is a treat the work of Rafael Moneo, completed in 1986. The style is strong yet unobtrusive: the spacious, oat coloured brick interior is gently lit and walking through this purposebuilt museum seems effortless.

The exhibits are equally special: exceptionally fine Roman sculptures from around Merida, huge mosaics look out for a particularly vivid "Escena de Caceria" (boar hunt) and for the "Rape of Europa" and a wealth of bronze statuettes, ceramic lamps and pots. If you have an interest in classical art, expect to find this place absorbing for hours.

Alcazaba

Commanding a strategic position overlooking the river and the ancient bridge, this Arab fort was built around AD 835. Inside you can climb the battlements or follow steps down to inspect the Arab water cistern. It's an impressive Moorish construction. Inside a low, solid building two even flights of steps lead down to the water supply. The striking vine decorated lintels are in fact pieces of Visigothic masonry reused by the Moors.

Puente Romano

The 60 granite arches of the Puente Romano are best viewed from the river bank at Avenida de Guadiana, but to really appreciate this Roman bridge, start walking across it. It has been here since the 1st century AD; not only is it strong enough to support modern day traffic but, being Roman, it is also dead straight. Part way across is a slipway that provides a riverside view of the massy defences of the Alcazaba.

Temple of Diana

Ruins of the Corinthian style Temple of Diana stand in the modern street, giving some impression of the Roman origins of the town.

Casa Mithraeum

The best mosaic floors of this Roman house (of which only the foundations remain) are preserved in breeze block huts: look out for an especially fluid composition of mythological figures in blue, turquoise and shimmering gold pieces.

Casa Anfiteatro

This is the site of a Roman house, right by the amphitheatre. Excavations have revealed water courses that were fed by the San Lizaro reservoir, along with a patio, baths and mosaics. Look out for the large mosaic with designs of fish, flowers, shells and dolphins, and an exceptionally lively one portraying grape treading.

Trajan's Arch

This is part of a much larger arch which stood here in what was once the main street of Merida.

lglesia Santa Eulalia

This Romanesque church has a typical square tower and solid carved doorway but the shrine to St Eulalia adjoined to it is very unusual, constructed out of 1st century columns and capitals of the old Roman Temple of Mars.

Places to Stay

El Arco P*, Santa Beatriz de Silva, 4 1. Tel: 31 0107. Nueva Espana HS*, Avenida Extremadura, 6. Tel: 31 33 56. Vettonia, Calderon de la Barca, 26. Tel: 31 14 62. Lusitania H**, Oviedo, 12. Tel: 3161 12. Cervantes H * *, Camilo Jose Cela, 8. Tel: 31 49 01. Nova Roma H***, Suarez Somonte, 42. Tel: 31 12 01.