Mahon- Menorca

Menorca's capital Mahon - popularly known as Mao - has something of an old colonial flavour. Confident, up-market and conservative, it sits around a perfect harbour scene: across the bay lies a marine station of low, white walls and red roofs, all spic and span like model-railway accessories. Tucked beneath the old town is the marina, busy with yachts and lined with bars and restaurants; stout palm trees are dotted along the shore. The town centre lies some way above all this, a collection of small plazas linked by quiet roads. None of them is particularly special, but they are worth wandering through even so to get a measure of the place and absorb its character. The tastes of the colonial British are evident throughout the town in a restrained domestic architecture of sash windows and clean masonry, tasteful and understated.

Unless you have booked into a resort hotel, Mao makes a good base from which to explore the island's fabulous beaches. These range from tiny coves of white sand and crystal-clear water to busy resorts with bars, cafes and plenty of opportunities for water sports. To get to the really exquisite, secret beaches on the island you need a car (or, better still, a boat) - and even then access can be down very difficult, bumpy roads. Persevere; it is well worth it.

Mahon Attractions The Harbour

The harbour is undoubtedly the prettiest part of Mao Descend to it from the high town via the curving road from Placa d'Espana; once at the quays, follow them round to the right. The scene becomes almost too perfect. The bay has the character of a wooded inlet: low hills amble tree-covered to the water's edge sprinkled with little pink and white villas, while yachts drift silently across the placid water. It is all very choice, very select; activity centres on the bustling marina, which has some good restaurants and bars, largely catering for the cruising crowd. For a view from the water, take one of the harbour boat trips that leave from beside the gin factory.

Mahon Attractions

The High Town

The most interesting area of the town is that immediately above the port, around the Placa de la Constitucion. The plaza is more of a road than a square, pleasantly sheltered by the 18th-century Iglesia Santa Maria, a restrained building of dean stonework with an octagonal tower visible from the port below. From here lanes lead up to Placa Bastio and Plaza Reial, both of which have quiet terrace cafes. Calle Isabelle II cuts between narrow whitewashed walls past an old military headquarters, which looks more like an iced cake than an army base, to the church of San Francisco and the museum. The church is beautiful in its simplicity and dates from 1717; the museum may be dosed for renovation - ask at the tourist office for details. Further inland, the Placa de S'Esplanada has less character, though it serves as Mao's central square. It is a wide open space with a handful of terrace cafes. and is used for the local market.

The Gin Factory

Gin is one of Menorca's major exports: they have been making it here in one form or another since the Middle Ages. The arrival of the Brits in 1708 greatly increased demand - one needs refreshment while watching the sun go down. Xoriguer is the gin made here and you can visit the factory any time during the working week. Rather more absorbing is the shop alongside it where you can sample different varieties of mother's ruin.

Cuitadella

Narrow, arcaded streets form the centre of this town, a throwback to the days when Menorca was a Moorish island and Cuitadella was the capital. A fortified cathedral and massive town walls remain from the days of the Christian Reconquest; both are best viewed from the harbour. Cuitadella is far less English in feel than Mao, a popular alternative base for exploring the island.

Mount Toro

Church-capped Mount Toro is the highest point on the island, rising to 358 m. The walk affords excellent views.

Beaches

All beaches are easily accessible by bus from Mao.

Es Gran is a very popular beach, particularly good for windsurfing. Headland walks from here lead to quieter coves, or you can take a boat to the Illa de Colon. The island has two big beaches but no facilities, so take a picnic; arrange with the boatman when you want to return.

S'Alga has no sand; you swim straight off the rocks or in the pool right out by the waterfront. There is a diving school here or you can ride the "sausage" - the latest water-sport craze. This involves being strapped to a giant sausage and pulled through the waves by a speedboat.

Punta Prima Shallow water here makes this an excellent beach for windsurfing. Binibeca The pleasant little sandy cove with sheltered, clear water can get crowded in high season, largely because the modern harbour village is so pretty: a jumble of whitewashed houses climb the slopes like clusters of sugarcubes just tossed there. Binibeca is also popular for excellent (and expensive) seafood restaurants.

Cala en Porter is something of a mini-Benidorm, with bars, discos and lots of people.

Son Bou is a 1.5-km-long beach that easily absorbs even the busiest of crowds; the far end is popular for nude bathing. This beach also offers rides on the "sausage".

Between here and Es Canutells to the east is a series of secluded, sandy coves, many difficult to get to.

Cala GaIdana, a long, gently curved, sandy beach, is very popular with crowds from the nearby hotels and apartments.

Arenal d'en Castell is a beautiful beach, though very crowded because of the hotels and apartments here.

Fornells Low, whitewashed buildings line this old fishing harbour set in gently hilly countryside. Fornells is extremely popular for day trips; it is also the place to eat the island's speciality, caldereta de langoste - if you can afford it. If you can't there is still a lovely beach to enjoy.