Gerona

The delightful walled town of Gerona nestles around a low hill beside the river Onyar. It's a small place, quietly picturesque, its streets breathing with the history of Roman, Arab, Jewish and Christian peoples. Aside from the charms of its cool lanes and alleyways, Gerona retains one of the largest medieval Jewish quarters in western Europe, Arab baths considered second only to those at Granada, and a handful of excellent museums and art galleries. There's more than enough to fill a day's exploration and you may well find yourself tempted to stop over and drink in the town's tranquil atmosphere by night.

Gerona Hotels

Carlemany Hotel - Plaça Miquel Santaló - Girona 17002 - Spain Phone: 972211212 Fax: 972214994
Peninsular Hotel - Nou, 3 - Girona 17001 - Spain Phone: 972203800 Fax: 972210492
Condal Hotel - Joan Maragall, 10 - Girona 17002 - Spain Phone: 972204462 Fax: 972204371
Bellmirall Hotel - Bellmirall, 3 - Girona 17004 - Spain Phone: 972204009
Europa Hotel - Juli Garreta, 21-23 - Girona 17002 - Spain Phone: 972202750 Fax: 972200386
Ultonia Hotel - Gran Vía de Jaume I, 22 - Girona 17001 - Spain Phone: 972203850 Fax: 972203334
Costabella Hotel - Avda. de França, 61 - Girona 17007 - Spain Phone: 972202524 Fax: 972202203
La Madrague Hotel - 253 Avda de Rhode - Girona 17480 - Spain Phone: (34) 972 257 664
Melia Girona Hotel - Ctra. de Barcelona, 112 - Girona 17003 - Spain Phone: 972400500 Fax: 972243233

GETTING YOUR BEARINGS

If you have arrived by train or bus (or by road from Barcelona), you will find yourself south of the river in the newer part of town. The old quarter is to the north of the river. If it's open when you arrive, pick up a map in I the railway station tourist office. Walk up Carrer Santa Eugenia (round to the left you exit the train station) and straight up Carrer Nou and cross the river. Immediately to your left is the Rambla de la Hibertat, where you will find the main tourist office. This is a good spot from which to get your bearings: the Rambla de la Llibertat runs alongside the river, heading west towards the oldest part of town. A lane off the far end of the Rambla takes you on to the Carrer de la Forca which, like the Rambla, runs parallel with the river, below old Gerona. Off its (near) east end, a flight of broad steps climb up past the Agullana Palace, a hint of 18th century grandeur. Follow Carreer de la Forca along to its west end and off to the right you will find the narrow flight of steps of El Call, taking you through the heart of the old Jewish quarter. Alternatively, continue to the end of Carrer de la Forca and you will eventually arrive at the cathedral. The Arab baths and monastery of Sant Pere de Galligants are beyond here, accessible through a stone gateway, out on the edge of town.

Gerona Attractions

El can

Winding, shallow steps carve their way through the old Jewish quarter, dark and evocative of the medieval town. Midway up this narrow alleyway you can visit the Centre Isaac El Cec (open 10.00 19.00), where there is a small exhibition on the history of Jewish communities in Catalonia.

At the top of the narrow steps, follow the lane up the slope ahead to the Museu d'Art and the cathedral, or you can retrace your steps and head for the cathedral via Carrer de la Forca.

Museu d'Art

Gerona's art museum has a wealth of paintings and carvings beautifully displayed, from the Romanesque period right up into the 20th century. It's housed in the Bishop's Palace, a splendid Renaissance palace developed around an earlier building. Even if you are not a fan of contemporary art, it's well worth the climb to the top floor for the panoramic views over the town and countryside.

Cathedral

Although the door to the Cathedral is just across a small square from the art museum, for full effect approach it via the grandiose 17th-century stairway that reaches up to the towering Baroque facade. The cavernous Gothic interior is light and lofty, its decorative highlight.a 14th-century silver-gilt altarpiece, and there are some especially tranquil cloisters.

Museu Capitular. Chapter Museum

This is an excellent museum, housing the Cathedral treasures. There's a huge range of exhibits: look out for Beatus' Book of the Apocalypse, a fine 10th-century manuscript in Room 1; the exceptionally beautiful 14th-century processional cross in Room 2; and the "Tapestry of Creation" in Room 4. The tapestry is actually a massive embroidery. It dates from the 11th century and, for its era, is uniquely rich in colour and design. It shows Christ in majesty surrounded by creatures and seasonal scenes of medieval peasant life- digging, ploughing, fishing and, in winter, folk toasting their fingers and toes over a fire.

Banos Arabes:the Arab Baths

The Arab Baths were built as a place both to bathe and to meet and talk, directly following Roman lines. Despite their name, they were in fact Christian civic baths and were built in the 11th century, and rebuilt in the 12th. There are hints of Moorish design here and there, and they were probably built by Mozarabic workers, but the overall style is Romanesque, with rounded arches and heavy, ornate carved capitals.

The baths are extremely well preserved: there's a tepidarium and two calderiums, but the most impressive room is the frigidarium. (cool-bath room), with its central octagonal pool lit by a skylight above, and wall niches where bathers would leave their clothes.

Monastery Sant Pere de Galligants

This 11th-12th century Romanesque Benedictine monastery houses the city's archaelogical museum. Exhibits include local Greek and Roman finds and Jewish tombstones.

Las Casas del Onyar

The waterside houses that fringe the old town hang over the river just as the houses of medieval times did. Best viewed from the footbridge found through an alleyway off the westerly end of the Rambla.

Palacio de los Agullana

Steps from the east end of the Carter de la Forca lead up past one of Gerona's finest town palaces. It dates from the 14th-17th centuries and, along with the church of Sant Marti Sacosta, forms one of the most attractive Baroque areas of the town.

Town Walls

With so much of interest within Gerona, it's easy to forget that this is a walled town. There have been walls here for centuries, built by Iberians, Romans and again during medieval times. Once you have visited all the sights, take a walk along the walls. Several sections are accessible: perhaps the nicest is the stretch that runs from the top of the town down to its easterly end.