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Cuenca
The Old Town Cuenca forms a dramatic highlight in a highly charged landscape. Ravines fall either side of this ancient hilltop town to meet two rivers carving their way through the land below. Surrounding rocky hills seem to have an energy all their own, and and raw; nearer slopes are covered in the exclamation marks of deep green poplar trees. Narrow, twisting lanes wind up steep slopes to the Plaza Mayor, passing the Torre de Mangana on the way, formerly part of an Arab fortress, now the town's clock tower.
The pretty, cobbled Plaza Mayor forms the quiet centre of old Cuenca. A handful of cafes and gift shops nestle here behind a sprinkling of leafy young trees. Here, too, is the Gothic cathedral, a blunt, blockish building, strangely cold and quite at odds with the flavour of the place. The interior is surprisingly airy, with an 18th century high altar by Ventura Rodriguez, kept behind elaborate grilles.
Back out in the plaza again, follow the lane down to the right of the cathedral (as you face it) to find the town's three important museums the Diocesan Museum, Cuenca's Archaeological Museum and the Museum of Abstract Art. The Diocesan Museum The Diocesan Museum houses a large collection of 18th century Cuenca tapestries and carpets, two small paintings by El Greco and a dazzling array of church silver. Continue down the lane to find: Museo de Cuenca A thoroughly enjoyable collection of Roman finds forms the mainstay of this local archaeological museum, including some superb statuary, carved capitals and mosaic fragments, along with coins and jewellery. Museo de Arte Abstracto This museum houses sculpture and paintings by Spain's most accomplished abstract artists, including work by Chillada, Saura, Tapies and Zobel. It occupies part of one of the beautifully preserved hanging houses: from inside the craftsmanship of the carved balconies can be inspected at close quarters, and the views are exceptional.
Walk under the archway by the Abstract Art Museum to the vertiginous San Pablo bridge for thrilling views of the canyon and the hanging houses. HILLSIDE WALKS
Cuenca has delightful, sequestered hillside walks. From the Plaza Mayor follow Calle de Julian Romero, which runs up from the left side of the cathedral facade. It leads through a quiet quarter of ancient, dilapidated houses to the 18th century church of San Pedro. From the church, follow the lanes that fall off to your left, and then turn left again on to Ronda del Jucar, a hillside roadway that heads back in the direction of the new part of town. Soon you will see a twisting pathway leading off here down towards a crumbling convent building the Hermitage of the Virgin of Las Angustias and then down to the river.
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