Burgos

Burgos is overwhelmed by its massive cathedral, just as it has been since medieval times. It was a major stopping place on the road to Santiago and the cathedral is a Gothic masterpiece. Its cold iron grey stone confers a northern European flavour, and Burgos's harsh winters add to the steely qualities of the place. (it is worth remembering, if you are travelling in spring, that snow is not uncommon as late as April.) Lit up at night, the cathedral turns ghostly pale, and the whole magnificent structure seems to float amid the town's domestic buildings like a vision.

Burgos Hotels

Landa Palace Hotel - Ctra. N-I, km. 235-Burgos - Burgos 09001 - Spain Phone: 947257777 Fax: 947264676
Meson Del Cid Ii Hotel - fernán Gonzalez, 64 - Burgos 09003 - Spain Phone: 947208715 Fax: 947269460
Best Western Hotel Rice - Avda. Reyes Católicos, 30 - Burgos 09005 - Spain Phone: 947222300 Fax: 947223550
Almirante Bonifaz Hotel - Vitoria, 22 y 24 - Burgos 09004 - Spain Phone: 947206943 Fax: 947256404
Tryp Fernan Gonzalez Hotel - Calera, 17 - Burgos 09002 - Spain Phone: 947209441 Fax: 947274121
Abba Burgos Hotel - Fernán González, 72 - Burgos 09003 - Spain Phone: 947001100 Fax: 947001101
Zenit Puerta De Burgos Hotel - Vitoria, 69 - Burgos 09006 - Spain Phone: 947241000 Fax: 947240707
Nh Palacio De La Merced Hotel - Merced, 13 - Burgos 09002 - Spain Phone: 947479900 Fax: 947260426
La Puebla Hotel - La Puebla, 20 - Burgos 09004 - Spain Phone: 947200011 Fax: 947204708
Meson Del Cid Hotel - Pl. Santa María, 8 - Burgos 09003 - Spain

This is very much a one stop tourist town; hordes come to see the much prized cathedral and move on, which is a pity, because there are several other medieval monuments worthy of exploration. Burgos itself is home to the military, a small, orderly place. Gardens are well kept, trees grow in regular rows and the atmosphere is fairly conservative. The traditional evening paseo centres on the Paseo de Espol6n, flanked by regimented avenues of pollarded limes, while weeping willows flow over the adjacent riverbanks. Follow any of the flat, even stretches of parkland out of town and yet more orderly poplars and pines accompany you along the way.

Burgos sits beside the river Arlanzon dominated by its cathedral: both act as landmarks for getting your bearings. To the south of the river are the bus station, just off Calle de Madrid, and the train station, at the end of Avenida Conde Guadalhorce. Head for the centre of town crossing the Arlanz6n from Calle de Madrid and you pass through the Arco de Santa Maria to the cathedral. Entrance to this great Gothic building is via Plaza de Santa Maria, a flagged pedestrian square. From here, stepped lanes climb the hill, retaining the medieval scale of the town centre; those immediately above the plaza take you to the church of San Nicolas and then on to that of San Esteban.

Below the east end of the cathedral Calle Huerto del Rey and Calle Lain Calvo form the bedrock of Burgos's young bar scene, alive with people at weekends. From here Calle Segura leads to Plaza Jose Antonio, a rather disappointing square carved through by traffic, linked by pedestrian lanes to the Pasco del Espolon.

The Pasco del Espolon. runs alongside the river, from the Arco de Santa Maria to Puente San Pueblo, an orderly strip of a riverside park and the scene of the evening paseo. At Puente San Pueblo a ferocious statue of El Cid charges with sword drawn at full tilt, ready for any oncomers from Madrid. Stretching away from behind him, Calle Santander soon becomes Avenida del Cid Campeador; the tourist office is tucked in a small square to the left off here. Call in and pick up a map.

Calle Juan and Calle Pablo run off the broad Calle Santander to converge at a little bridge across a tributary of the Arlanz6n and the Plaza San Juan, a quiet square flanked by the Iglesia de San Lesmes and the Museo de Marcelione Santa Maria. Beyond this brief Gothic interlude, Calle las Calzades and Avenida General Yague form the Bernardas area of high rise apartments and late night discos.

Most of Burgos's sights are grouped around the cathedral and are easily explored on foot: the Monasterio de las Huelgas and the Cartuja Miraflores are two exceptions. The Monasterio de las Huelgas is 1 km away: follow the sips heading west along the southern bank of the river. sequestered Cartuja de Miraflores is 4 km away in the opposite direction: follow the signs out of town heading east along the southern bank of the river. Burgos Attractions

The Cathedral

Burgos Cathedral is a magnificent fusion of French and German Gothic styles, dripping with decoration and stunning from all angles. Its sheer size is also outstanding. Twin towering spires flank the west facade, two octagonal lantern towers are crowned with intricate, lacy decoration and to the rear a mass of flying buttresses flail like spiny insect legs. Crazy, delicate spires and pinnacles seem to issue from every point and there is a stately unity to the whole pile that is quite extraordinary. Its exterior alone could keep you absorbed for hours. Inside it is just as exhilarating.

As you enter the cathedral, the first chapel on your right contains one of Spain's most gruesome statues of Christ. It is covered in some kind of undetermined animal skin and has a beard of human hair. Folklore has it that the beard still grows and has done for the last 500 years and needs trimming every eight days. Next to this, the Capilla de la Presentacion contains a fine alabaster Renaissance tomb.

The soaring octagonal tower at the crossing of the nave is studded with glorious decoration and topped with a starvaulted roof. Light floods in through the windows on all sides. Below it is a simple slab the tomb of El Cid.

The cloisters arc 13th and 14th century Gothic and in their adjacent rooms are tapestries and reliquaries. Placed high on one wall is a simple iron bound wooden casket, supposedly the chest of El Cid.

At the extreme east end of the cathedral is the Capilla del style. It was built as a chapel for the burial of Pedro Fernandez de Velasco and his wife Mencia de Mendoz. Its star shaped arrangement of windows and its airy lantern tower were the inspiration for the larger central tower.

Walking back down the church towards the entrance, you pass the ornate Escalera Dorada, or Golden Staircase, by Diego de Siloe, one of the earliest pieces of Spanish design to show the influence of the Italian Renaissance just before leaving the church, look at the 14th century clock high on the wall: a grotesque figure called Papamoscas swats flies and strikes the hour.

San Nicolas

This unassuming church conceals an elaborate altarpiece that completely fills the end wall, as if the sculptor tried to cram as much frenzied, lacy detail into this tiny church as there is on the vast cathedral nearby. It is the work of Simon and Francisco de Colonia, begun in 1S05, and shows scenes from the life of St Nicholas. Find a switch on the column by the entrance to illuminate the church. Notice, too, the unusual large medieval wood carvings on the door outside.

Arco de Santa Maria

In the 14th century this chunky monumental gateway was built as part of the city's defences. In the 16th century it was remodelled to please Emperor Charles V. Ms statue stands to the left of centre surrounded by nostalgic figures from Burgos's glory days as a fighting city: El Cid stands to the right of centre.

Cartuja de Santa Maria de Miraflores

Built of ghostly silver grey stone, this Carthusian monastery lies in a secluded spot surrounded by pines; there is a palpable tranquillity about the place. Founded in 1442, it has a simple Gothic exterior; inside is a wealth of medieval carving.

The alabaster tomb of John 11 and Isabel of Portugal is the real highlight of the monastery. It was completed towards the end of the 15th century, the work of Gil de Siloe, a Flemish sculptor. The monarchs lie on a star shaped tomb in all their finery, the folds and beaded brocade work of their robes a rich and meticulous celebration of their earthly glory. The figures carved around the sides of the tombs include lions, dogs, winged creatures and biblical characters sporting a fascinating array of medieval costumes.

Nearby, to the left of the altar, is the similarly elaborate tomb of the Infant Alfonso. Kneeling in prayer, the prince wears a richly carved gown, a large ornamented hat swung almost fashionably over his shoulders, his tomb lavishly detailed with cherubs, small animals and birds weaving their way in and out of entwining foliage. Alfonso's early death ensured the ascension of his sister Isabella the Catholic to the throne of Castile, an event that was radically to alter the history of Spain.

The altarpiece displays a profusion of biblical scenes and is covered in the first gold to have come from the Americas.

Monasterio de las Huelgas

Having been both a royal palace and a Cistercian abbey, this religious complex displays a mixture of styles. There are Gothic and Romanesque cloisters, and the church, which iolds tombs of the Castilian aristocracy, is decorated with 17th century French tapestries. The convent has a considered amount of Mudejar workmanship, in particular the ceilings of the cloister and of the Capilla de Santiago.

Museo Marceliano Santa Maria

(Plaza San Juan. Open Tuesday Saturday 10.00 14.00 and 17.00 20.00, Sunday 10.00 14.00.) Housed in the splendid Gothic cloisters of the remains of a Benedictine monastery, the museum displays a large collection of paintings by a local artist, Marceliano Santa Maria (1866 1952). His canvases show picturesque scenes of local village life in a light and colourful Impressionist style. Look out for painting No. 52, which shows the church of San Lesme (just outside in Plaza San Juan) as it once was in a rural setting.

Casa del Cordon

(Plaza de Santo Domingo de Gusman, just behind the statue of El Cid.) There is no public access to this late 15th century city palace, but the facade is distinguished by a weighty rope carved in stone surrounding the entrance the Cordon of Franciscan monks. It was in this building that Ferdinand and Isabella received Columbus after his second voyage to the Americas.

Casa Miranda: Museo Arqueologico

(Entrance 200 pesetas. Open Monday Friday 10 00 13.00 and 16.4S 19.1S, Saturday 11.00 13.00.) Archaelogical museum displaying prehistoric, Roman and Visigothic finds.